It’s a steamy summer morning in Hillsborough River Watershed. The morning easterlies distribute moisture from the tropical Atlantic across the central peninsula. The land heats with the rising sun and hot air rises into the atmosphere. As the day wears on, an afternoon breeze moves cooler air in from the Gulf of Mexico. Air masses collide setting the stage for a violent battle of nature’s will. Hidden safely behind a bed of black clouds, the sun, now a mere spectator and bearing no responsibility, admires the mayhem.
In a thick marsh, a drop of water lands on a fern. Then another and another. Within minutes the rain falls faster and harder. A lightning bolt streaks across the sky. The murmur of thunder rolls in its wake that gradually builds to an earth-shattering bellow that shakes the very ground beneath. The already saturated marsh can’t contain the onslaught. Our drop of water trickles into a pool. The pool becomes a swamp, and the swamp gives birth to a river. The river winds its way to a bay, the bay to an ocean. Finally, in a salty current the drop of water rests. But not for long. The cycle that has been going on for thousands of years is about to begin again. Such is the price of eternity.
About 12,000 years ago humans settled the area now known as the Hillsborough River watershed. The river provided the resources they needed for survival. It remained in a pristine state until the turn of the 20th century when logging took a toll on the old growth. Some of the ancient oaks can still be seen along the riverbanks, but for the most part the tree lined banks and forests surrounding the river today are less than a century old. The river, however, remains vital to lives of millions of plants, animals and especially people living along its banks. If not for the river, Tampa, may not even exist. The river provides a major source of drinking water to the Tampa Bay area.
The Headwaters
The Hillsborough River begins its journey to Tampa Bay in extreme northwestern Polk County on a 560,000-acre plateau called The Green Swamp Wilderness Preserve. It was named after the 1700s British Lord and Earl of Hillsborough, Wills Hills. The headwaters are narrow, mainly small streams that flow from heavy Florida rains, growing wider until it they become one shallow river. Cypress swamps, oak hammocks and flatwoods comprise a 50,000-acre area withing the preserve known as The Green Swamp Wildlife Management Area.
It’s a haven for nesting birds and many native species of plants and animals. A portion of the Florida National Scenic Trail winds through the preserve where visitors can get their fill of hiking, biking, camping, fishing, kayaking and horseback riding. This is a very large and remote area where it is easy to get lost and water levels vary. If visiting, it’s best to do your research and check ahead before venturing anywhere in the Green Swamp.
From The Green Swamp, the river runs 54 miles south into Pasco and northern Hillsborough counties before spilling into Tampa Bay near Davis Island. The river flows in three distinct sections on its way to the bay, the upper river, middle river, and lower river. Each section of the river has a uniqueness all its own that can transport you back in time and show you the future all in one trip.
The Upper River and Hillsborough River State Park
The upper river is the most pristine part of the river defined by its serenity and the wildlife that call it home. Deer, bobcat, hogs, and alligators thrive here. It begins in the narrow streams of The Green Swamp and ends just north of Tampa. Explore it from the water where herons, ibis, spoonbills, hawks, eagles, and owls are common. Mighty alligators glide across the gentle currents searching for their favorite snack, perhaps a red-bellied turtle sunning himself on a fallen log. A 34-mile Kayak and canoe trail begins in the upper river at Hillsborough River State Park.
If an encounter with a gator is too much to stomach, there are other options for those that choose to explore the river on foot. Hillsborough River State Park is the most popular. This 3,900-acre preserve is home to the only stretches of river in Florida with class II rapids. Though nothing a novice couldn’t handle they do offer a soothing backdrop while strolling the banks of the park. Rent a kayak, cycle, Segway or hike the park’s seven miles of nature trails. There are two picturesque foot bridges that cross the river, one of which is a suspension bridge. Both primitive and modern campgrounds make the park ideal for camping. In the summertime, cool off in the park’s ½ acre swimming pool. History lovers can explore a replica from the Seminole War, Fort Foster, or check out centuries-old artifacts from the people who once inhabited the upper river.
Additional Parks and Recreation on the Upper River
U.S. 301 and Morris Bridge Road are the best ways to reach the upper river. Other than Hillsborough River State Park, many small parks and preserves can be accessed right off of the highway. Many, such as John B. Sergeant Park off of U.S. 301 south of the state park have boat launches, picnic tables and short hiking trails.
Following the river’s course either by land or water, other parks provide great escapes for an afternoon stroll, picnic or a just a break. The Oak Ridge Equestrian Area off Morris Bridge Road contains 18 miles of horse and hiking trails that run through pockets of historic orchards reclaimed by the surrounding forest. Morris Bridge Park has a boardwalk that winds through a cypress swamp along with picnic shelters, a boat launch, and access to the river for fishing. Morris Bridge Park is part of the Wilderness Park Off Road Trail which also includes Trout Creek Park, located a little further down river. Trout Creek Park plays an interesting role in what happens to the river as it nears the Tampa City Limits.
Tampa Bypass Canal
While a river brings splendor and nourishment to ecosystems that depend on it, the river can also bring devastation. Following flooding from Hurricane Donna in the late 1960s, the City of Tampa constructed the Tampa Bypass Canal to deviate swollen flood waters from the upper river north of Temple Terrace into Tampa Bay. The canal runs south from Trout Creek along U.S. 301 until it reaches Palmetto where it bends west emptying into McKay Bay. While at first just a means of flood control, the canal’s importance has grown. Today, it’s a primary source of drinking water for the city of Tampa along with a natural habitat for thousands of birds and wildlife.
Lettuce Lake Park
The next stop on the main river is the 240-acre Lettuce Lake Park on the north side of the Tampa’s city limit. Access the park from Fletcher Ave. Lettuce Lake is one of the most popular recreational parks in Tampa. Family’s picnic and play in many open spaces and shelters for rent. An extensive boardwalk follows the river for ideal wildlife viewing. There are playgrounds and nearby canoe or kayak rentals. From atop lookout tower, the transformation of the river could not be more apparent. On the north end of the park, the river narrows, and dark river resembles something one might find in the Amazon. Wildlife abounds. As it winds past the park, its banks widen. The river looks something more like a scene from Huckleberry Finn where a river boat might feel at home. Beyond is the middle river. Venturing there is taking a step forward in time.
The Middle River
The middle river is marked by affluence. The wide clear banks are home to the larger homes of some of the wealthier Temple Terrace neighborhoods like Riverhills. As the rivers winds south, historic Florida and modern architecture mix with grandfather oaks nestled among golf courses, egrets and alligators. Rowlett Park is a popular destination with a playground and wide trails. It’s also the where the river levels are controlled. The dam near the University of South Florida regulates the amount of water allowed into the Tampa Bypass Canal from Trout Creek.
Pass the Rogers Park Golf Course and Tampa’s historic Sulphur Springs is just ahead. A giant white tower appears on the horizon. The Sulphur Spring’s water tower is all that remains of a community that thrived in the 1920s through the 1960s. A first of its kind indoor mall, hotel, swimming hole (fed by the spring), water slide, and a drive-in theater all drew tourists to the area. Today, only ghosts inhabit the old gazebo next to the landmark tower off of Bird Street.
Just on the other side of Sulphur Springs is another historic Tampa neighborhood, Seminole Heights. Seminole Heights is home to another Tampa landmark, Lowry Park and Zoo Tampa at Lowry Park. Originally, home to carnival rides and caged animal enclosures that resembled something that might be found in the back lot of a circus, the zoo has undergone a remarkable transformation over the past 30 years just like the shores of the river around it. The zoo is now a leader in animal education and rehabilitation as well as a major Tampa tourist attraction. It is set for another major expansion over the next decade that will incorporate that will hopefully link the river to the main zoo.
The Lower River and The Downtown Riverwalk
The Hillsborough River straightens out from Lowry Park on its descent into downtown Tampa. Rivercrest Park lies along the path. Hundreds of homes, apartments, condominiums, restaurants and schools that have stood for decades guide the river on the last leg of its journey. One last sharp bend reveals the modern linear lines of Tampa’s downtown skyscrapers. Armature Works, one of the more popular places to eat and drink near downtown is adjacent to Water Works Park along with the popular eateries Ulele and Stones Throw. The river mouth is near. That’s not to say the river goes out with a whimper. Here the river has come full circle. The lower river is where history meets the future.
The Tampa Riverwalk follows the river through downtown to its final destination . It passes under the historic Lafayette Street railroad bridge where tall skyscrapers glare down upon the river. The historic University of Tampa columns at sunset rival any beach sunset you will ever see. The gentle river passes the Straz Center for the Performing Arts, Tampa’s home for Broadway. To pay respects to the former theater, Curtis Hixon Hall, the city created an outdoor space for weekend events and music, Curtis Hixon Waterfront Park. 54 winding miles from the Green Swamp, the spectacular Tampa Convention Center sees the river spill its contents into Tampa Bay. The river has come home. Like our drop of water, it mixes with the currents of the bay waiting for the sunrise and the call to return to its place of origin where the journey will begin again and again and again.
Visit the Hillsborough River
The Hillsborough River flows southwest through three counties. It supplies the nourishment needed for the life of millions. It’s witness to the ever-changing state of our environment. The Hillsborough River is undeniably both a sanctuary and a hazard, but it is also as pristine as it is modern. The Hillsborough River watershed in west-central Florida is truly a time capsule.
To visit the upper river or any of the numerous parks, drive north on U.S. 301 or Morris Bridge Rd. Hillsborough River State Park is 6miles north of Tampa off of U.S. 301. Morris Bridge Road turns into Fletcher Avenue west of I-75. Lettuce Lake Park is just west of I-75 on Fletcher. Trout Creek Park is just east of I-75 on Morris Bridge. To reach the Green Swamp, continue north on U.S. 301 though Zephyrhills to C.R 471.
The middle and lower river can be reached by visiting the numerous parks on the map in East Central Tampa and Temple Terrace. The Riverwalk is best accessed by parking downtown and walking, renting a bicycle, or motorized scooter which are available at several electronic stations throughout downtown Tampa. Weekends are busy so it’s best to get there early.
