Waves harmoniously crash on the Fort De Soto State Park shore. A seagull shrieks a solo tune. A dozen others, perched in the sand, listen for the cue to signal it’s their turn to join the chorus. A tern skips along the water’s edge, oblivious to anything except whatever might make a quick snack. It is nature’s symphony. The notes are not written. There is no maestro. It’s simple and pure.
You sit on the beach and listen. The sun soothingly bathes you in its warm rays. Your heart rate slows. You close your eyes, and you’re at peace. There are no high rises here, no tourist traps, surf shops, restaurants or bars. It’s just the ocean and the birds, a fish or two and you. Welcome to Fort De Soto Park, an island utopia surrounded by the warm waters of Tampa Bay and the Gulf of Mexico.
Fort De Soto Park is divided into the north side and the east side. The causeway from the mainland ends at a ranger station from where you have to go either left or right. Take the east road for picturesque views of lower Tampa Bay and the Sunshine Skyway Bridge. The east side has plenty of fishing spots along the or places to simply pull over and relax. The east beach faces Tampa Bay. It’s marked by a large parking lot with restroom and showers. The north side of the island features two fishing piers, a gift shop, snack bar, bike rentals, a bike trail that runs the length of the island, canoe and kayak rentals, picnic areas, hiking trails, and a pet playground. This is also where you’ll find the old fort.
Fort De Soto Campground
Getting to Fort De Soto Park is part of the experience. You’ll see some of the most affluent coastal living in all of Tampa Bay as you drive the five-mile causeway through the Tierra Verde community. Boat ramps and amazing campground are located just past the entrance to the state park. The campground contains 236 camping sites complete with electric hook-ups, fire pits for grilling and picnic tables. There are restrooms with showers, laundry, and a playground for the kids. If you’re camping, make sure you make reservations well ahead of any planned trips. The wait at Fort De Soto campground can be up to a year!
The boat ramps are maintained well and provide plenty of space for parking, but you’ll still want to arrive early for a day of relaxation or fishing in either the bay or the gulf. It’s one of the more popular places to launch in Southern Pinellas County so it fills up fast especially on holidays.
The Sunshine Skyway Bridge
The Sunshine Skyway Bridge is only a short distance away by boat. There are stunning views of the iconic bridge from both the causeway and inside the park. Its deep channels provide some top-notch fishing for species you might think you have to go fifty miles into the Gulf of Mexico to catch. Fishermen from years past will tell stories of going to the Skyway in search of the giant grouper (or jewfish). You don’t hear tales of the enormous, man-swallowing beasts lurking in those waters today, but who knows what lies at the bottom of the shipping channels? Other species of grouper, tarpon, king mackerel and cobia are there though. Experienced Captains track them down depending on the time of year.
A short jaunt out the mouth of Tampa Bay to Egmont Key. Known at night for its lighthouse, Egmont Key served as a first line of defense during the Spanish occupation of Florida and as a U.S. military reservation until the latter part of the twentieth century. Today, it’s a wildlife refuge and only accessible by private boat or ferry from Fort De Soto Park.
The Old Fort
The highlight of the park is the actual fort from which the park got its name. Fort De Soto was a military installation built in 1898 during the Spanish-American War. The mortar battery is part fo the National Registry of Historic Places. Enjoy a free to self-guided tour. Some of the last mortar cannons of their kind in the United States have been placed in the fort. Fortunately, a shot has never been fired from Fort De Soto. Though it was not used in battle, the fort has served in many training exercises over the years including bombing practice for Hiroshima during World War II.
On the opposite side of the parking lot where the battery is located. Follow the path to see the footprints of the original buildings that made up the fort are still visible. The view from the top of the battery’s western wall that looks over the park’s north beach with Egmont Key in the distance is one of the best lookout spots in all of Florida.
The Pier
In the same parking area where you go to get to the fort, you’ll find the Gulf Fishing Pier and snack bar. This is one of the longer and wider fishing piers in the area where you’ll always find good company. Access is free! Summertime brings in schools of Spanish mackerel, jack, tarpon, and trout chasing bait fish that are so thick one drop of a bait net usually provides ample supply for a good day of fishing.
Dolphins are common around the gulf pier. And they are bold. No catch is safe with these guys. They are not bashful about robbing a fisherman of his dinner both in and out of the water. The dolphins here are known to leap from the water to snatch a hooked fish out of midair much to the chagrin of the person worked tirelessly to reel in the fish. Nevertheless, it is quite the spectacle if you are fortunate enough to witness such behavior.
In winter, the seas are rougher, and the wind can be cold coming off the Gulf. Despite the chill there is a peacefulness to the Northerly unique to winter in Florida that more than makes up for the wind’s bite. Sunsets from the Gulf Pier are spectacular regardless of the time of year with a dazzling array of red, yellow, orange, and purple in the sky that one might compare to looking through a window into heaven.
Hiking, Biking and Kayaking
Fort De Soto Park harbors seven miles of paved trails that provide access to all the park’s amenities including the campground and picnic areas. You can travel within the park by foot, bicycle or car. Bike rentals are located at the north beach gift shop and concession stand near the Gulf Pier. The park is a paradise for roller bladers because of the flat smooth trails..
From the main trail that traverses the park, access off-road hiking trails on the north side of the island. The trails are convenient to the picnic areas so even on a cool day there is something to do to do if swimming or sunbathing is out of the question. The short hikes provide access to some pretty remote parts of the island so be sure to bring a camera! Palmetto and pine scrubs give way to coastal estuaries, so the diversity of wildlife is pretty spectacular. Gopher tortoises, dozens of butterfly species, osprey, and owls are common. Herons and egrets frequent the shallow coast. You’re certain to find something worth shooting with a camera.
Fort De Soto Park is part of Mullet Key. Mullet Key is part of 5 offshore Keys south of St Petersburg. Grab a kayak or canoe or rent one from Top Water Kayak Outpost on the island to explore the shallow mangrove channels. You may run into dolphins or manatees. However, you”re sure to get up close and personal with local native species of egrets, herons, pelicans, or maybe a limpkin, spoonbill or ibis. Acquaint yourself with the serenity of the park’s back country where Tocobaga Indians once lived. You can do all of this without ever stepping foot on what Fort De Soto Park is most known for…the beaches.
The Beaches
Three miles of the park’s seven-mile coastline consist of white sandy beaches. Whether you park at the east beach parking area or you just pull off the road and take a short walk through the north side seagrass to the shore, the park’s beaches offer relaxation at its finest. Fort De Soto’s beaches are not as crowded as St. Pete, Treasure Island, or Clearwater. There are no water slides, tiki bar bands, or hotels. A three-time winner of the nation’s best beach on Trip Advisor, the stars of Fort De Soto Park are gentle breaking waves, long walks, first class shelling, wading birds pecking a snack from tide pools, pelicans skimming across the ocean surface, dolphins rolling in the distance, and the aerodynamic ballet of osprey fishing for their young. The park rangers regularly patrol the beaches to keep everything order.
Most importantly don’t feed the seagulls or you will live to regret the company of some very undesired friends. The warm gulf waters bring many species of live shellfish near the shore during the summertime. The sand dollars can get so thick you practically kick them up with every step. You’re also likely to encounter sea stars, star fish and stingray so make sure to shuffle when you walk to avoid any unwanted encounters. Also keep in mind that Florida prohibits live shelling so when you come across that starfish, resist the temptation to take him home. He’s happy where he’s at.
Remember, your role is strictly an observer. Lose yourself in the opera before you. Let the stress of daily life melt away. Become one with the ocean’s symphony. Allow your heart and mind to synchronize with its melody. This small island utopia can belong to you for just a little while. Feel it! Treasure it! Protect and enjoy it! Nature’s song is what Fort De Soto Park is all about. All you have to do is listen.
Visit Fort Desoto Park
Get Directions
Located a short distance from St. Pete Beach, you get to Fort De Soto from I-275 or from Gulf Blvd by route of the Pinellas Bayway. It’s a toll road that is well-tended. The park also has its own toll plus a $5.00 admission per vehicle. You’ll see some of the most affluent coastal living in all of Tampa Bay as you drive the five-mile causeway through the Tierra Verde community.
Stop at Billy’s Stone Crab for a wide variety of seafood and spectacular sunsets while you dine.
